
A |
周六中午十二点,杭州拱墅区某小区门口的绝味鸭脖店里,鸭脖、鸭翅码得整整齐齐,顾客三三两两地前来扫码、打包、走人。“最近生意不差,周边小区多,每天都有熟客”,店员一边招揽生意一边说,“卖得最多的那天,我在外卖平台上下架了21个品类,怕消费者下单以后没货送不出去。
B | ”
可就在前一天,“鸭货三巨头”周黑鸭、绝味食品、煌上煌集体交出2026年中期成绩单,市场表现并不乐观。社交媒体上更是炸开了锅,“一斤鸭脖能买一斤牛肉一斤排骨”“鸭脖降价仍被吐槽太贵”“鸭货为何不好卖了”等词条轮番挂上热搜。 UK Prime Minister Boris Johnson has come up with a plan to repurpose arable land which is at present used for crop-based biofuels so that more food might be grown as food prices and inflation soar.,However, officials of US President Joe Biden made it clear on 26 June that Washington wouldn't "okay" Johnson's initiative in a bid to protect American farmers and avoid breaking climate commitments. According to the British daily newspaper, The Daily Telegraph, Germany appears to back the British premier's plan whereas Canada and the US have rejected it. Johnson's plan needs the unanimous support from all G7 nations for it to fly.,"I think the rift is one that happens periodically between the UK and US - without minimizing the significance, there have been tensions on trade issues for some years now (including the tariffs imposed by the Trump administration on the UK). How serious it becomes is questionable," says Professor Robert Singh, specialist in contemporary US politics at the University of London's Birkbeck College.,UK on Collision Course With US as BoJo Set to Prioritize Food Production Over Green Energy06:06 GMT,Previously, Johnson and Biden clashed over Brexit customs issues and the Northern Ireland Protocol with the American president reportedly accusing the British premier of "inflaming" Irish tensions ahead of the 2021 G7 Summit in Cornwall.,Given the record of friction between Biden and Johnson, it appears likely that if the UK does legislate to revise the Northern Ireland Protocol (NIP), Washington will react negatively, Singh suggests. Downing Street has published a Bill proposing to change the protocol unilaterally in favor of British businesses and communities. It would also grant the British government powers to amend the agreement further if appropriate.,"It's possible that [the NIP amendment] could then inflame the trade issue further," says Singh. "[I]t will worsen the Johnson government's record, at a time when the cost of living crisis, inflation, and many other problems are piling up. It's probably, on balance, yet another own goal by Johnson - an unnecessary diplomatic row that was avoidable.",To complicate matters even more, Johnson skipped a climate summit hosted by Biden for world leaders earlier this month, despite 15 other heads of state and government attending the virtual gathering. According to Politico, the premier's absence "reverses a previous snub from Biden" who declined to attend a climate meeting Johnson hosted on the sidelines of the UN General Assembly in 2021.,Yet another diplomatic row rocked London and Washington after the UK issued licences to four British flagged vessels to fish for Patagonian toothfish - also known as Chilean seabass - near Antarctica. Earlier, a 26-member fishing regulatory body, the Commission for the Conservation of Antarctic Marine Living Resources (CCAMLR) set specific catch limits for the species. The US immediately accused Britain of breaching the commission's rules, rendering the catch illegal. The feud could lead to an import ban on Patagonian toothfish, according to the media.,Northern Ireland Protocol Used as Proxy in Tory Efforts to Unseat BoJo, Legal Expert Says14 June, 18:55 GMT,UK-US Spat Can be Fixed Quicker Than That Between UK and EU,The UK-US tensions are unlikely to lead to a serious breach in relations in the near future, insists Dr Roslyn Fuller, director of the non-profit think-tank Solonian Democracy Institute and the author of the book Beasts and Gods: How Democracy Changed Its Meaning and Lost Its Purpose.,"Johnson and Biden are both career politicians and will probably behave pragmatically," says Fuller. "Even were they to exaggerate their differences in the press to play to their respective electorate, this would be unlikely to affect their highly connected working relationship greatly.",Though the NIP issue could cause some additional tensions between the UK and the US, the nations are likely to solve relatively minor dilemmas, such as the spat over the toothfish catch, according to the author.,"As the two major English-speaking powers and neoliberal nations that have cooperated intensely on military matters in the past, it would be quite stupid on their part to indulge in any serious in-fighting," she says. "I think the US is paying increasing attention to Germany as the remaining European superpower, but that doesn't necessarily have to come at the expense of the British.",However, when it comes to the UK and the EU, the rift between them indeed appears to be deepening, according to Fuller:,"Britain also obviously lost faith in the EU and its regulatory regime, and clearly wants to go its own way to the extent that it can," the author says. "This is thus an example of increasing global fragmentation."。一边是小区外的门店生意火爆,一边是三巨头的财报凉了半截。鸭货,到底还有人吃吗?
把时间拨回到二十多年前。南昌街头,下岗女工徐桂芬蹬着三轮卖卤鸭,煌上煌的种子就此埋下;武汉菜市场里,周富裕支起小摊,靠一锅甜辣卤水慢慢熬出名堂;长沙,辞去医药经理职务的戴文军开出第一家绝味鸭脖,用鲜香麻辣的重口味撕开市场。
那是鸭货的“黄金年代”。

C | 鸭脖、鸭翅、鸭锁骨这些屠宰场曾经白送都没人要的边角料,被滚烫的卤汁一浸,摇身变成年轻人追剧、宵夜、聚会的标配。2012年,煌上煌率先登陆A股,摘下“卤味第一股”桂冠,门店铺遍全国;2016年,周黑鸭凭借“鸭脖爱马仕”的定位,在商场与高铁站的黄金点位安营扎寨;绝味则靠加盟模式走出一条“农村包围城市”的快速路,2017年上市,2019年破万店,2023年顶峰时逼近1.6万家门店。彼时,“鸭货三巨头”的名号响彻大街小巷。没人会想到,这三只风头无两的“鸭首领”,会在今天集体踩下刹车。

D |
8月21日,三巨头集体披露中期业绩,财报数字隐隐透出一股寒意。绝味食品上半年营收25.15亿元,同比下滑10.82%;归母净利润1.35亿元,降幅达23.16%。经营活动现金流由正转负,从上年同期的净流入4.84亿元变成净流出1.82亿元。这已是绝味连续第三年中期收入缩水,卖得少了,赚得薄了,手里能支配的钱也紧了。周黑鸭上半年收益14.61亿元,同比增19.5%,但增收不增利,归母净利润仅9149.6万元,跌去15.2%。收益增速远低于销量增速,仅靠“以量补价”勉强维持增长。煌上煌是唯一营收利润双增的“幸存者”。营收12.26亿元,同比增长24.53%,净利润8625.93万元,涨了12.14%。但细细一看,增长引擎几乎全部来自并购的福建立兴食品,自家传统酱卤主业收入仅5.28亿元,同比反降14.34%。

E |
核心鸭货业务集体承压已是不争的事实。那个曾靠加盟跑马圈地、以万店规模横扫市场的卤味赛道,正慢慢步入瓶颈期。
财报承压,品牌曾经引以为傲的万店版图,自然成了最先倒下的多米诺骨牌。根据窄门餐眼数据,截至2026年4月,绝味全国门店约10272家,较峰值缩水约三分之一。

F | 周黑鸭的财报显示,从2023年的3816家门店开始收缩,2024年关闭785家,2025年上半年再关闭167家。煌上煌门店则从3660家减至2898家。粗放式加盟扩张后,大量低效门店成为炮灰。
但有意思的是,就在三巨头一边关店的同时,小区门口的那家鸭货店生意却一直很好,这或许是因为门店“生对了地方”。周黑鸭更多选址在一二线城市的商场负一楼和高铁站,绝味和煌上煌更多扎根社区。商场店租金高、客流依赖周末,养不起一家鸭脖店;而社区周边的门店靠的是居民日常消费,下班带点卤味加个菜、周末买点鸭脖看剧,需求稳定且可持续。事实上,绝味鸭脖也已经意识到社区的价值。

G | 2025年10月,它在长沙开出首家“绝味鲜卤”超市型门店,从传统卤味零售向多品类、标品化的社区超市模式转型,覆盖卤味、零食、烘焙、饮品等五大品类。
那么,消费场景为什么会集中在居民区?人们现在对鸭货的定位,究竟是零食还是菜肴?在杭州某商场的一家周黑鸭门店,实习护士小龙刚买下一盒鸭翅,计划把它当作午餐。“我一个月也就吃一两次,每次都是当菜吃”,小龙说,“现在嘴馋的时候可挑选的零食太多了,如果不是当成正餐的话,根本想不起来这个东西。

H | ”而让角色定位发生变化的“幕后黑手”,是定价。

I | 绝味鸭脖,250克卖24元,折合一斤48元;周黑鸭,300克鸭脖35元,鸭翅230克卖30元。对零食来说,这个价格门槛实在太高了。
根据《中国新闻周刊》的调研,消费者对休闲卤味的花销接受度主要集中在20-49元,其中20-29元价位的占比最高,大约为36.85%。

J | 人们抱着二三十元的预算走进店里,上秤一称,却有风险称出两顿简餐的钱,自然会叫人望而生畏。

K | 价格把人挡在门外,而零食赛道本身又越来越拥挤,量贩店遍地开花,膨化食品把货架塞得满满当当,价格一个比一个亲民。

L | 当零食吃太贵,当菜也不会天天买,它的消费场景和市场空间自然就被压缩,这下就显得有些尴尬了。
但消费者并没有不认可鸭货的味道。“隔一段时间不吃就会想”,小龙说,“最近几个月吃得比较多,上瘾。

M | ”而作为食物,味道恰恰是决定胜负的底牌。甜辣、麻辣、五香的这些味型经过十几年市场检验,早已深入中国人舌尖上的记忆。对品牌来说,要想重新“上桌”也有一些方法,首先就是把价格打下来。
据《2025年水禽产业与技术发展报告》,2025年,上游毛鸭价格大幅下降。全国毛鸭均价降至7.60元/千克,同比下降13.31%。鸭颈采购均价同比下降38.70%,鸭翅下降21.35%。而据光大证券研报,原材料成本大约占卤味公司营业成本的70%到80%。原材料降了这么多,售卖价格理应也有一些下降的空间。此外,品牌还应重新定位。

N | 鸭货的核心竞争力,是要让消费者在追剧时想起它、在宵夜时想起它、在聚会时想起它。

o | 说到底,鸭货这门生意,从来都不是“没人吃”的问题,而是“怎么让人吃得起、吃得方便”的问题。
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